Sewing machine



BEST AVAILABLE COP.

Nov. 2, 1926. 1,605,902

L. ROSENMAN SEWING MACHINE Filed Jan. 8, 1925 3 Sheets-Sheet 1 INVENTOR. Zea IFoseIznzaH/ BEST AVAILABLE COP.

L. ROSENMAN Nov. 2, 1926.

SEWING MACHI NE Filed Jan. 8, 1925 5 SheetsSheet 2 INVENTOR. Zeofosenmawv,

ATTORNEYS.

' BEST AVAILABLE COP. I Nov. 2, 1926. 1,605,902

L. ROSENMAN [SEWING MACHINE Filed Jan. 8, 1925 3 Sheets-Sheet .5

I N V EN TOR. .Zeo fiasenmazu,

BY g 6 M QTTORNEYS.

Patented Nov. 2, l

BEST AVAILABLE cop PATENT QFFICE.

LEO ROSENMAN, OF NEWARK, NEW JERSEY.

SEWING MACHINE.

Application filed January This invention relates, generally, to improvements in sewing machines; and the invention has reference, more particularly, to a novel construction of sewing mac ine, preferably arranged to be driven by power at high speed, and adapted to attach, by a sewing operation, fastener provided ta e to garments, and especially to various inds of womens undergarments.

In the manufacture of womens undergarments it is, in many instances, customary to provide the meeting edges of the garment wit-h hook and eye fasteners, to facilitate the proper spacing of the hooks and eyes along the meeting edges of a garment, and to enable the attachment thereof to be rapidly carried out with a minimum of operations, there has come into use materials known as hook tape and eye tape. Such tapes are provided with the hooks or eyes, as the case may be, already attached thereto in desired longitudinally spaced relation, so that all that is necessary to be done in equipping a garment with such fasteners is to sew the tapes to the marginal portions of the meeting edges ofthe garments.

"When sewing eye tape to a garment, it

is generally desirable that the loops of the eyes project beyond the edge of the garment to which the tape is attached; and to assure a neat, smooth, and gapeless attachment, without fiy effect, it is necessary that the line of stitching shall traverse the loops of the eyes. By reason of the latter necessity a relatively expensive and highly trained and skilled operator is required,.and even with such an operatorthe work is but slowly accomplished, much time being lost for the reason that the operator must stop machine and manually feed eye-loops relative to the needle to produce the traversing stitches, and

1 when the machine is not stopped in time the sewing machine needle is frequently broken by striking the metal of the eye, so that time is consumed by replacement of the needle and rethreading. It also quite frequently occurs that the work is spoiled, even by the most skillful operator.

It is the principal object of this invention, therefore, to provide a novel means for controlling the movement of the eye tape to the sewing mechanism of the machine, so

that accurate placing of the attaching stitches relative to the loop of the eye is assured, whereby the machine. needle will skip the sides of the latter, and whereby any 8, 1925. Serial No, 1,161.

slight variation in the spacing of the eyes on the tape will be automatically compensated for, to always bring the loop of the eye in proper position relative to the machine needle; all to the end that the sewing operations may be carried on at relatively high sped, andwithout necessity for employing an especially trained or highly skilled operator.

Another ob'ect of this invention is to provide, in connection with the tape movement controlling means, signal indicating means, for giving to the operator a timely warning in the event properly controlled movement of the tape is interrupted, and also for warning the operator of the approach of the end or a pieced section of tape; all to the end that the machine maybe stopped in time to make proper adjustments, or renew the supply of tape, before risk of spoiling the garment occurs.

Y Other objects of this invention, not at I this time more particularly enumerated, will be clearly understoodfrom the following detailed description of the same.

The invention is clearly illustrated in the accompanying drawings, in which Figure 1 is a front elevation of a sewing machine made according wand embodying the principles of this invention {Figure 2 is a plan view of the same, with portions broken awayto more clearly illustrate theeye tape movement controlling means; @Figure .3 is a fragmentary transverse section, taken .on line 33 in Figure 2; Figure 4 .is' a fragmentary transverse section, takenlon line 4-4 in Figure 1; Figure 5 is a fragmentary transverse' section, takenon. line 5-5 in Figure 1; Figure 6 is a fragmentary 77 in Figure 2; Figure 8 is a fragmentary transverse section, taken on line 8-8 in Figure 2; and Figure 9 is a detail cross Sec tion taken on line 9-9 in Figure 1. Figure 10 is a fragmentary view of a portion of garment with fastener tape sewn thereto ac cording to this invention. 2 A Similar-characters of reference are employed in all of. the hereinabove described views, to indicate-corresponding parts.

Referring to said drawings, the reference character 10 indicates the bed of the machine, upon which is mounted the arm 11, at the free end of which-is arranged the usual reciprocating needle bar 12 and spring tensioned presser foot 13, the same being actuated from the main shaft 14, which extends through said arm 11 in the usual way. The needle bar 12 is provided at its lower end with the usual sewing machine needle 12', which cooperates with any well known form of shuttle mechanism (not shown) located in the usual manner beneath the bed of the machine.

Suitably atiixedto the bed 10 of the machine, in front of and alined with the needle bar 12 and presser foot 13. is a guide plate 15; upon which are secured laterally spaced apart guide-ribs 16 to form, intermediate thcreof; a guideway 17 to lead the eye-tape 18 to the sewing mechanism of the machine.

Said eye tape is provided, at suitable longitudinally spaced intervals, with metallic eyes, the loops 19 of which are exteriorly projected from the body of the tape. In order to more clearly explain the-operation of the machine, I have shown and shall hereinafter describe the operations of the machine in connection with eye tape, the

eyes of which are spaced one inch apart, and with the stitching mechanism of the machine adapted to produce eleven stitches to the inch. In so illustrating and describng the novel features and functions of my machine, I do not intehd to impose any, limitations as to the spacing of the eyes of the tape or as to the number or kind of stitches produced by the sewing mechanism, since in such respects the michinemay be readily constructed and M18? ed to function. with re lation to any. desired spacing of the eyes of the tape; or withjany; desired number or kind of-stitches acress and'intermedi'atesaid eyes of the tape.

In practice the eyetape isle d to the sew ing inech anisni of the machine. by the above described guide means, and the garment to whichthe tape is to beattached is registered with the tape by laying the garment G over the tape in advance of the Presser foot and sewing mechanism, so that garment and tape together pass to the latter-mechanism. If desired. the edge of the garment may be passed through a heinmer 20 see dotted representation thereof inF-igure 2 of -the;drawings) in advance of;its movement with the tape to. the presser foot and sewing mechali sm of the {nae-lune, An illustration O the finished sewing isshownin Figure 10. It

may also be desirable to provide, intermediae the presser foot 13 andthe inner end of the guideway 17. a keeper guide-piece 1 21.

which is grooved on its underside to permit the passage of the eye-tape beneath the same. Said keeper gaiide-piece 2l tends to flat on the bedlO of the hold the eye-tape machine as It; advances to and benea-th the n w iQ 3- I Associated withthe rear side of the machine is a suitable supporting frame-work 22. Journaled in the lower portion of said supporting, frame-work 22 a longitudinal shaft 23, upon one end of which is fixed a lower feed roll 24, which is disposed in rear of and alined with the presser foot and sewing mechanism of the machine. Vertically movable, in connection with said frame-work 22 and above said shaft 23, are a pair of bearing blocks 25. Journaled in said bearing blocks 25 is a second longitudinal shaft 26, upon one of which is fi. :ed an upper feed roll 27 adapted to cooperate with said lower feed roll 24. Said second shaft 26 is driven from said shaft 23 by intermeshing gears 28 and 29, with which said shaft 23 and shaft 26 are respectively provided.

In operation the eye tape and garment pass between the upper and lower feed rolls 27 and 24 so as to be gripped thereby, and by the rotation of the feed rolls are caused to be progressively moved or advanced relatively to and past the sewing mechanism of the machine. In the form of my invention as illustrated in the accompanying drawin the feed rolls 27 and 24 are sosized, that each quarter revolution thereof will advance the eye-tape 18"a distance equivalent to the distance separating the eyes or loops 19 thereof, measured from center to center of the latter. Suitable means are provided for actuating the feed rolls 24 and 27, both to intermittently advance the eye-tape the normal stitch length or distance, as well as to so advancethe eye-tape at proper times so that what may be termed jump-stitches will be fbrmdacross the sides of the eyes orloops 19 of the eye-tape, whereby the sewing needle 12 is prevented from striking the tpetalof the eyes or loops at the risk of breaking and thereby entailing necessity of ystoppifig the machine for thereplacement of needle and for rethreattling. I have shown in the drawings one form of feed roll actuatmcanswhi'clris satisfactory, but which is subject to i'riore or less mechanical varia- "llie illustrated feed roll actuating means comprises'a ratchet wheel 30 which is tilted 'on said shaft'23. This ratchet wheel preferably possesses forty-four teeth', thus providing eleven teeth in each quarter of its circumference, corresponding to eleven normal stitches per inch to be produced by the sewing mechanism of the machine at each quarter revolutionof the feed rolls 24 and .27. Pivotally mountedon the shaft 23,- adjacent to said ratchet wheel 30. is an oscillatorzirih 31. Pivoted upon said oscillator arm 31 is a" spring-pressed pawl which cooperate with the teeth of said ratchet wheel 30$ Oscillations of the oscillator arm.- properly synchronized relative to the operation of the sewing mechanis of the machine, are produced'byan eccentric the double the length of the ratchet. teeth of said ratchet wheel 30, the circumference of said ratchet wheel 35 being otherwise blank. lhe ratchet wheel is so positioned on the shaft 23 relative to the, ratchet wheel 30.

'= that the teeth 36 correspond in position to the last four teeth in each series of eleven teeth with which the quarters of said ratchet wheel are provided. Pivotally mounted on the shaft 23, adjacent to said ratchet wheel is an oscillator arm 37. Pivoted upon said oscillatorarm 37 is a spring pressed pawl 38 which cooperates with the ratchet wheel Oscillations of said oscillator arm 3?, properly synchronized relative to the operation of the sewing mechanism of the machine, are produced by an eccentric 39, having double the stroke of the eccentric 33. Said eccentric 39 is connected with and actuated by the main shaft 14 of the machine,

" and is provided with a connecting rod or link 40, the lower free end of which is pivotally connected with said oscillator arm 37. In operation, after the loop 19 of an eve of the eye tape is advanced pastthe sewin needle 12' and the latter is raised reliminary to. making the first of the series of stitches of normal length intermediate the eyes, the operative downward stroke of the eccentric 33 swings downwardly the oscillator arm 31, so that the pawl 32 engages the firstof a series of eleven teeth in a quarter of the ratchet wheel 30, and thus advances the ratchet wheel 30 the distance of one tooth. This movement is transmitted through the shafts 23 and 26 to the feed rolls 24 and 27, which are turned a sufficient distance to draw forward the eye-tape the distance of one normal stitch, or one-eleventh of an inch. lVhile' the eccentric 33, oscillator arm 31 and pawl 32 are recovering under the continued rotation of the main shaft 14, the latter operates the needle bar 12 and cooperative sewing mechanism to produce the operative reciprocation of the sewing needle 12'. These operations are successively repeated until the eye-tape has been intermittently advanced to produced seven stitches intermediate adjacent eyes of the eye-tape. In the meantime the ratchet wheel 35 has been inoperative, since the pawl 38 of its associated oscillator arm 37 has been traversing a blank portion of the circumference of said ratchet. wheel 35. Upon 3 BEST AVAILABLE COPi operativerelation to the first of the two teeth 36 in the corresponding quarter of the ratchet wheel 35, so that on the next'rotation of the main shaft 14, the eccentric 39 produces an operative. stroke of the oscillator arm 37, which by reason of the douhie length of stroke imparted by said eccentric 39, causes the pawl to advance the ratchet. wheel 35 and thus rotate the shaft 23 and in turn the shaft 26 for a distance twice that produced by the operation of the ratchet whee 30, thus doubling the feeding movement. of the feed rolls 24 and 27, and :u'lvancing the eye-tape relative to the sewing needle for a distance equivalent to two normal stitches, or two-elevenths of an inch, which. to better aid an understanding of the operation, may be called eighth and ninth stitches, which are thus combined into one stitch, which bridges the near side of the metallic loop of the approaching eye. When the needle 12' descends it therefore passes downwardly between the sides of said eye. While the sewing needle 12 thus reciprocates the eccentric 39, oscillator arm 37 and pawl 38 recover, so that the latter is brought into engagement with the second of the teeth 36 on operative quarter of the ratchet 35-. The next rotation of the main shaft 14 produces a second operative stroke of the eccentric 39, which in turn producesa second opera;- tive" stroke of the oscillator arm 37' and pawl 38, so that the latter again advances the ratchet wheel 35, and in turn the shafts 23 and 26 for a distance twice that produced by the operation of the ratchet wheel 30, thus again doubling the feeding movement of the feed rolls 2 and 27, and again advancing the eye-tape relative to thesewing needle for a distance equivalent to two normal stitches, or two-elevenths of an inch, which, to better add an understanding-of the operation, may be calledth'e tenth and eleventh stitches, which '.are thus-combined into one stitch, which bridges thei fan-side of the metallic loop of the approaching eye, and thus permits the sewing-needle'totrav- 8158 the eye, and again"be positioned for normal stitching bet-weenthe eyes. "While the ratchet-wheel 35'is operative inthe'mann'er above describedfthe ratchet' wheel 30 will be freely advanced, the pa-wl"32' yielding to its movement. While the ratchet wheel 30'is operative the'ratcheti wheel 35 is inoperative by reason of its'blank or toothless sections. The arrangement 'of'stitches resulting from the above described operations are not to be considered aslimiting the. scope of this invention,-'sinc e various modifications of stitch arranger'iient may be attained by suitablecorresponding modifications of the interrelated cooperation of the ratchet wheels 30 and 35 without departing Sir completion of the seventh normal stitch,

p I from the principles of this invention, however,'the pawl'38 has been brought into In order to aid the'operator in"initial1y a guide-rib 16.

positioning the eye-tape in the machine ready to carry on the sewing operations, and also to provide at all times an indication that the tape is running in proper synchronized relation to the sewing mechanism 1 have provided a novel means for idicating the tape position. This means comprises two separate indicating devices, the readings of which should at all times correspond.

The first device may be termed a gauge plate 41, which is secured in desired location in connection with the guide plate 15, so as to overhang the guide-way 17, and to this end may be secured or fastened upon As shown more clearly in Figure 2 of the drawings, the gauge plate 41 is provided with a plurality of indicator points corresponding to the number and spacing of the stitches which are produced by the sewing mechanism of the machine, and said points may be numbered consecutively in correspondence to the number and position of the stitches. The eyes of the eyetape will move past the said indicating points toward the sewing mechanism of the machine, and the movement of a visible eye relative to the indicating points will correspond to and indicate the movement of the eyes of the tape relative to the needle of the sewing mechanism of the machine. For example, if the center of an eye adjacent to the gauge plate 41 is opposite. the indicator point numbered seven, this will indicate to the operator that the seventh stitch in the series bet-ween the eyes has been made toward the eye approaching the needle of the sewing mechanism, all of which will be understood from an inspection of Figure 2 of the drawings. The second indicating de vice comprises a rotatable indicator wheel 42, bearing on its circumferential .face numeral indications corresponding to the numher and position of the series of stitches intermediate the eyes of the tape. Said indicator wheel 42 is fixed upon one end of a longitudinal shaft 43 which is journaled in bearing supports 44 mounted on the supporting frame work 22. Said shaft 43 is driven from said shaft 23 by a one to four chain and sprocket drive 45, or other equivalent transmission means, in such manner that each quarter revolution of the shaft 23, and of the feed rolls 24 and 27 driven by the latter, said shaft 43 and indicator wheel is caused to make a complete revolution; in otherwords during the advance of he eye tape by the feed roll movement for a distance equivalent to the distance between the eyes of the tape from center to center, said indicator wheel makes a complete revolution, successively exposing to view the indicating numbers corresponding to the successive stitches produced by the sewing mechanism from eye to eye. The indicator wheel is enclosed by. a suitable housing 46 ence with the formation of the stitches.

The above described indicating wheel arrangement will be best understood from an inspection of Figure 1 of the drawings.

1t is preferable that the upper feed wheel 27 be under an upwardly yieldable tension, and to this end downwardly thrusting tension or compression springs 48 are disposed between the bearing blocks 25 and the upper portion of the frame work 22. It is also preferable that the upper feed roll 27 be annularly grooved, as at 49, intermediate its opposite circumferential marginal sides or edge portions, thus providing a clearance space for the metallic eyes of the tape, as this1 same pass through and between the feed r0 s.

One of the most important features of my present invention, comprises a means for posltively controlling the movement of the eye-tape, so that the loops of the eyes of the same will always be brought into proper relation to, the sewing needle 12 preparatory to traversing said loops with the stitching, and so that slight variations in the feeding movement of the tape, or in the spacing of the eyes on the tape will be compensated for. This means consists of an automatically controlled positive stop device which coacts with the eye-tape so as to positively arrest the latter, to prevent over-running of the eye-tape under the impulsion of the feeding means and consequent displacement of the eyes from properly timed and spaced presentation towthe sewing mechanism of the machine. Secured to the bed 10, so as to extend adjacent to or border one side of said guide plate 15, is a bearing bracket or support 50, and spaced longitudinally from the latter, and also secured to said bed 10, is a bearing piece 51. Journaled in and extending between said bearing means 50 and 51 is a rock-shaft 52. Fixed on the end of said rock-shaft 52 adjacent to said guideway 17 is a rocker-arm 53 adapted to be oscillated by the movement of said rock-shaft. Fixed on the forward end of said rocker-arm 53 is aatransverse stop-piece 54, the free end of which extends transversely across the guideway 17. The underside of said stop-piece 54 is so shaped as to provide an abutment to engage and arrest an eye loop of the tape which is moved forwardly toward the same as the tape is advanced relative to the sewing mechanism of the machine. Means is provided for producing properly synchronized. movementso f. the stop-piece relative ,eo2 BESTAVAILABLE COP: 5

to the tape movement so that the same at proper times moves into operative relation to the tape andin, the path of an approaching eye of the latter, and at proper times is raised or removedfrom'suchvoperative relationto release the tape. In one form, as illustrated in the drawings, the latter means comprises a timing cam 55, which is fixed on said shaft 28 so as to rotate therewith. Fixed on the'bed 10 in a proper location is a fulcrum post 56, upon which is hivotally supported a bell-crank lever 57. Also pivoted onsaid fulcrum post 56 is a lever-arm 58, the free end of which extends over said timing cam 55. Adjustably connected with the free end of said lever-arm 58 is a stud 59, Whichengages the operative periphery of said-timingcam vThe upper or horizontal arm of. said bell-crank lever 57 is pivotally interconnected with said lever arm 58 by a linkjGO; Extending upwardly from said rock-shaft 52 isalever-arm 61. The lower or vertical arm of said bell-crank lever 57 is operatively interconneeted with said rockshaft leven-arm 61 by. an interconnecting linki,62. The stop-piece Sis normally retained in raised onreleased relation to the eye-tape by meansfof a leaf spring 63, or equivalent means, which engages the rear end ofrthefrocker-arm 5 3, to thus normally up-tilt-thedorward end of -the latter on which-thestop-piece 54 is carried, thus also, through-(the reverse relation of said rockshaft,-,positioning' the above-described link and lever mechanism in normal initial relation-to the timing cam' 55. .The rotation of the-timing cam 55 at proper times carries one of- -i ts;;pe ripher al=cam projections 55 (see Figure 3,)flute-"operative engagement with the; stud 59 ofithe lever arm 58, thus eXercising}-a-.t-lifting pressure on thelatter, which through the, link 60' rocks the bell-crank. le- 'ver -57 -,ft0 j in turn, through the link 62 and lever arm 61, produce a forward operative rotation of the rock-shaft 52, thereby turning downward the. forward end of the rocker arm 53,,and thus moving the stop-piece 5i downwardly upon the eye-tape in front of an approac ng eyes- 0 p ith r f- T s op piece} 54;;bei1ig thus operatively positioned, iS Sbgllfildbjfl the'.'cam 55 so-that, as the tape advances'under theimpulsionof the feeding mechanism, the approaching eye-loop is carriedinto eIiga-gement with the stop-piece, and thus the; movement of the tape is accurately arrested whereby the eye-loop advancing tow-ardthe'needle 12 of the sewing mechanism of the machine is stopped in proper position'relative to said needle 12 preparatory to'the production by said sewingmeehanism of the-eye traversing jumpstitches, :{TllQ timing cam 55 is so shaped as sto-v its'operative peripheral cam projections 55, thatit will release its'operative effect-upon the stop-piece actuating mechanism, by the time it is necessary to advance the tape for the formation of said jumpstitches. I From the above description it will bequite apparent, that the stop-piece 5% functions to provide a positive governing effect and check upon the advance of the eyetape to the sewing-mechanism, whereby overrunning of the tape is prevented, and also whereby the tape may be always brought up to a proper position and no slack be allowed to form intermediate the stop-piece and the feed-rolls; all of which tends to produce a self-compensating or regulating feeding movement of the tape to the sewing mechanism, so that even if slight irregularities in the spacing of the eyes on the tape occurs, it will not be likely to disturb the properly timed and controlled movement of the succeeding eye-loops in proper relation to the sewingv mechanism of the machine.

It nust be here noted that the abovedescribed automatic positive stop control device is a basic feature of this invention, and is an essential feature in combination with aneye-tape'advancing or feeding means, regardless of the detail structure or specific character of the latter means; I therefore desire, in certain of the appended claims,

wherein said positive .stop control device is claimedin ,combination with tape advancing or feeding means generally, that the latteri'neans shall be broadly included, and not confined, by interpretation, to the specific form of tape advancing or feeding means herein, described and illustrated, which, as to such broad relation and combination of positive stop control andtape advancing or feeding means, may beconsidered merely illustrative ofone form of such means.

\ In the specific zform of tape advancing or feeding means herein illustrated and described, and, which comprises the pair of rotatable feed-rolls 24 and. 27,.1 have found itdesirable to provide automatic means for releasing the grip of the feed-rolls upon the tape, as soon as the eye approaching the stop-pieee'fia. is brought into arrested engagementwith the latter, rather than to allow the feed-rolls to slip. on the thus positively arrested tape-although the latter method of operation is not entirely impractical. If the grip of the feed-rolls is re leased relatively to the tape, the inherent tension .of the latter, which accumulates underthe pulling impulsionof the feed rolls, will, when the rolls are released, relax while the tape is arrested ,or Positively stopped by the stop-piece 54:, thus permitting the tape to normally adjust itself during the formation of each series of fastening stitches, and preferably just prior to the production of the aforesaid jump-stitches which traverse the eye approaching and passing the needle 12 of the sewing mechanism.

Ill)

"- which the tape is maintained in running aline'ment to and with the feed rolls. Said arm 89 is downwardly'yieldable and is ten sionally held in normal raised position by spun sprin 89 against a stop-post 9O provided with an adjustable stop-screw 90,

winehf ay be adjusted to determine the desired'norinal initial lift of the arm 89 and its tape lifting extension 89 \Vhen the tension "device above described is employed, n ne-distance between the eye loop '19 approaching' th'e stop p'iece 1 relative to the pr' ceding'eye loop is slightly less than normal spacing, the former will be engaged against the stop-piece 54 in advance ofthe H reiia'se er the" feed rolls, so that the feed indveniehtt of 'the latter will pull onthe tape, thus' causing thearm 89 to yield downwardly until the feed rolls release. Upon release of the feed-rolls the tension device \vi'll"again lift to raise the tape to normal positionf When the 'distance between the eye-loop l9 approaching the stop-piece 54: relative to the'pi'ecedingeye loop is slightly more than norinal'spacing, the feed'rolls will take up the difference before their release,"sin'c'e they are sized to feed the tape a slightly greater distance than the normal distance betwenthe eye-loops of the latter. lt will'tliiis be apparent, that the feeding of the tape isfself edmpensating, so thaterrors are notlperinitted'toaccuhiulateor build up .86 'as" to ex' ehtnan bring the eye-loops of the t'a'peont of properly synchronized moveinent relative to the sewing mechanism of the 'madhinef Itwill-thns be apparent that,

the described and illustrated arrangement;thisrelea'sing movement of the feed nausea-aria 27 is preferably effected once during each quarter"revolution of the latter. The means tor-automatically accomplishing the said-releasing movement of the feed rolls at properly timed intervals relative to the other operations involved, comprises a pair 7 of upwardly extending rods 64 the lower ends of which are respectively attached to said bearing blocks 25, and the upper ends (at which extendthrough the upper portion oft-he frame work 22. Attached to and extending between the upper free ends of said rods 64 matinee-head 65; Journaled in BEST AVAILABLE Com bearings 66, fixed on the upper portion of said frame-work 22, is a transverse spindle 67, which is disposed beneath said crosshead 65, undwhicli is provided with a lift cam (38 to engage said-cross-head 65. Fixed on the rearwardoute'r end of said spindle 67 is a crank-wheel 69 with which is engaged a pull-spring 70, or equivalent device, which produces a reverse rotation of said spindle to normally hold and return said lift (am to an initial inoperative position. Fixed on the forward end of said spindle 67 is a miter or bevel gear 71. Attached to said supporting frame-work 22 are a pair of longitudinally spaced bearing members 72. Journaled in and extending between said bearing members 72 is a longitudinal spindle Said spindle 7 3 is provided with a miter or bevel gear 74 which meshes with the gear 71. Fixed on the opposite end of said spindle 73 is a stoparm 75, which engages a stop-stud 76 connectedwith said supporting frame-work 22, to thus determine thenor'mal initial position of said above describedinterrelated: 'pa'rts. Longittidinally'slidable'n'pon said'spindle 73, but-so'e'ngage'd thereupon'a's tdturn therewith, is a sleeve 77, provided; vvitli "a suitably positioned tripleve'r 7 8. Suitably positioned and-secured in connection'with the connect ing' rod or link 40 is a tripper projection 79. Pivot-ally connected with a fulcrui'n member 80, which is arranged upon'the lower portion of the frame-work '22, is an upwardly extendinglevertll, which isheld in a normally retracted position by a pull sp'rin 82, orequivalent means. Fixed onsaid shaft 23, so as to be rotated thereby, is a camwheel 83', provided on' its face with a pinrality of properly positioned cam projections 84:, which cooperate with a pro ection or o ing as o l-theater 81' (see Figure 1), to produce properly tiine'doscillations of said lever '81. Pivotally mounted in connection with the upper portion of said frame-work 22 is a transverse lever 86 one endpf'which is operatively coupled with said lever 81, and the opposite end of which is provided witha stud 87- to operatively engage an annularl'y grooved collar 88'which is secured'upon said sleeve 77. In operation, a projection of the cam-Wheel 83 is carried into engagement with'the projection or nosing 85 of the lever 81 to cause an operative swinging inovenient of the latter. This movement of the lever 81 is transmitted through the transverse lever-86 to thereby cause a forward shifting movement of the sleeve 7 7 upon the spindle 73, thus carrying, at the proper moment, the trip lever 78 into the path ofmov'ement of the tripper projection T9 of the linker connecting rod 40. At the moment of this shifting of the sleeve 77 and trip lever 78, th'e' connecting rod or link 40 is 'at the period of its downward ill?) strokefs'o that the tripper projection 79 is below the trip lever 78, consequently on the next. upward strokeof the connecting rod .or link- 40, the tripper project-ion? 9 is carried into lifting engagement -with the trip lever TS-which is thereby swung upward, thus rotating the sleeve 77-, and through the latter also rotating the spindle 73. The rotation of the: spindle 73 is transmitted through the gears 74 and 71 to the transverse spindle 67, which is thus rotated to turn the cam 68 into lifting engagement with the cross-head 65. The lifting of the cross-head 65 raises, through the rods 64,

. the bearing blocks 25, thus elevating the shaft 26 and causing a separation of the feed roll 27 from operative relation to the feed roll 24, thereby releasing; the tape from the feeding action of said feed rolls for the purposes and with the advantages above pointed out. The' continued up-stroke of the link-or connecting rod' lO carries the tripper-projection 79 away from the triplever i 78, 'whereupon" the pull-spring 82 re turns the lever 81 and', -througl i-'the interconnecting -parts, the -'-s1eev'e ='77 to' normal initial position, while {the pull spring 70 returns the rotatable parts of the'mechanism to normal initial positions, so that, after the momentary'release of the feed rolls relative tothe'tape;the'same areagain returned to normal operative relation to the latter.

It is desirable to provide means to pre' vent b'ackdash {or play a inthe. shaft- 23, and parts operated thereby, and' to this' end the said shaft may be provided with a'ra'tch'etwheel 91, with which a detent pawl 91, cooperates (see'Figure'1); g I haveprovided in cooperative relation to thenovel fastener tape controlling and feed-- ing mechanism above described, a signal means adapted to give advance warning to the 'operat'or in the event the fastenertape 4 is tending to abnormal displacement or' ad-' van'cement out of properly synchronized relation to the sewing'mechanismiofthe mm chine. This si'gnlalmeans is preferablyelectric'ally operated, andmay consist. either in alvijsible signalysnch as an-electric lamp 92. as shown, or' in an 'au'diblifisi'gr al, which would be equivalentin purpose and effect.- J ournaled in said bearingbracketor support 50 is a spindle 93i'1pon"which is fixed a forwardly extending actuating'arm 94'provided at its free end with a lateral extension or shoe 95 adapted to be positioned-in th'epath of the-eye loops 19 of the tape'18, as the latter advances through the guideway 17. Secured to said spindle 93 on the opposite or outer side ofsaid bearing bracket or support 50 is a forwardly extending carrierarm 96. Secured upon the free end of said carrier arm 96 is a resilient contact finger 97, which is suitably insulated, but which is provided with a suitable terminal connect-ion 98 for seer AVAILABLE coPi attaching thereto a positive circuitwire 98' leading from a suitable source of electrical energy. Supported from said bearing bracket 50, and suitably insulated therefrom, is a contact-plate 99, which is positioned adjacentto the free end of said contact finger 97 sons to be engageable thereby: Said conta-.':t-plate 99 is provided with a terminal connection 100, which is connected by a circuit wire 101 with one pole of the signal lamp 92. Fixed on said shaft 23, so as to retate therewith, is a make and break cam 102, which provides an electrical ground through the machine. Supported en a suitable bracket 103, and insulated thereby from electrical ground, is a resilient contact-brush 10 which at proper times is engaged by the make and break cam 102 (see Figures 1 and 8). Said contact-brush 104: is provided with a terminal connection 105, to receive the attachment of a circuit wire 106 leading thereto from the opposite pole of said signal lamp 92. The circuit is established from the ground provided by themachine back to the source of electrical energy, through a nega-- tive circuit wire 10?. In operation, as the tape ls'advances through the guideway 17,- the eye-loops 19 are successively passed beneath the shoe 95 of the actuating arm 94, a spring 108 maintaining the said shoe yield-- ingly pressed against the body of the tape 18. hen thus downwardly tilted in engaged relation to the body of the tape 18, the actuating arm 9% holds the carrier arm- 96 downwardly tilted to engage the contact finger 97 in circuit closing relation to the contact-plate 99. When however, an eye loop 19 passes beneath the shoe 95 of the actuating arm 94-, the latter is raised or upturned to likewise upturn the carrier arm 96, and thus remove the contact finger 97 from circuit closing engagement with the contact plate 99. The timed rotation of the-make and break cam 102 is such that normally, when'the circuit is broken by the lifting of the actuating arm 94, one ofthe cam-pro jections of the cam 102 will be in circuit closingengageinent with the contact brush 10%, and; conversely, when the actuating arm- 94' is lowered between the eye-loops 19 ot' the tape 18 and the circuit is closed by the; engagement of the-contact finger 97 with the contact plate 99,- then thecam projection of the ram 102 will be disengaged from: the contact brush 101. It will thus be apparent that so long as the tape 18 is advanced by the feeding means in normal synchronized relation to the sewing mechanism of the machine, the electric circuit through the signal lamp will always be interrupted at either one point or the other, but in the event the tape begins to run out of proper svnchronism, then the two circuit closing devices will be-' come simultaneously instead of alternately operative, and the signal lamp 92 will be illuminated, thus giving warning to the operator to stop the machine, and make whatever adjustments may be necessary to attain a resumption of normal operation.

I have also provided in cooperation with the eye-tape guiding means an additional signal means adapted to warn the operator that the end of the tape is reached, or that pieced tape is approaching, thus notifying the operator not to start the running of another garment through the machine, until the proper supply of tape is renewed. In the form of signal device illustrated in the drawings (see Figures 1 and 9), the same comprises an electrically operated signal, which may be in the form of an electric lamp 109. Mounted on the guide plate 15 is a pivoted arm 110, the free end of which rests upon the eye-tape 18, as the latter advances to the guideway 17. Supported upon said arm 110, but insulated therefrom, is a rearwardly extending contact linger 111, which is provided with a terminal connection 112 to receive the attachment of a circuit wire 113, leading through the signal lamp 109 from a suitable source of electrical energy. Connected with said guide-plate 15 is a bracket 114, by which are supported a pair of fixed insulated contact points 115 and "116, one above and below the free end of said contact .finger 111. Said contact points 115 and 116 are connected by circuit wires 117 back to the source of electrical energy. As the eye-tape runs normally benea-ththe arm 110, the same is upheld in a position to retain the contact linger inter mediate of and disengaged from said contact points. 115 and 116. \Vlien, however, the end of the tape passes from beneath the arm 110, the latter will drop or swing downward, to thus swing upward the free end of said contact finger 111 into circuit closing engagement with the contact point 115, thereby closing the circuit to illuminate the signal lamp 109, and consequently warning the operator that the end of the tape is approaching. In the event the tape is pieced by overlapping two sections thereof, and the overlapped or pieced section is carried beneath the arm 110, the additional or doubled thickness of the tape causes the arm to turn upwardly from normal position, thus swinging downwardly the free end of the contact finger 111 into circuit closing engagement with the contact point 116. The signal lamp 109 is thereupon illuminated, and the operator thereby warned that the pieced section oftape is approaching.

' From the above description of this invention it. will be evident that I have produced a. very efiicient means for controlling the movement of eye-tape to the sewing mechanism of a sewing machine of such character that high speed operation may be attained without necessity for employing especially skilled operators.

I am aware that various changes may be made in the general arrangements and combinations of the several devices and parts, as well as in the details of the construction of the same, without departing from the scope of this invention as described in the tore; 3,'oin g specification, and as defined in the appended claims. Hence, I do not limit this invention to the exact arrangen'ients and con'ibinations of the various devices and parts as set forth in the foregoing specification, nor do 1 confine myself to the exact details of the construction of said parts as illustrated in the accompanying drawings.

1 claim 1. In combination with a sewing machine, means for guiding fastener tape to the sewing mechanism of the machine, means for advancing the tape relatively to said sewing mechanism, and an automatic positive stop cooperative with the fasteners on the tape for governing the movement of the tape'to said sewing mechanism.v

2. In combination with a sewing machine, means for guiding fastener tape to the sewing mechanism of the machine, means for advancing the tape relatively to said sewing mechanism, an automatic stop cooperative with the fasteners on the tape for governing the movement of the tape to said sewing mechanism, and means for visibly indicating the properly synchronized stitch-making advance of the tape relative to said sewing mechanism.

:3. In combination with a sewing machine, means for guiding fastener tape to the sewing mechanism of the machine, means for advancing the tape relatively to said sewing mechanism, and means for visibly indicating the properly synchronized stitch by Stitch advance of the tape relative to said sewing mechanism.

4. In combination with a sewing machine, means for guiding fastener tape to the sewing mechanism of the machine, means for. advancing the tape relatively to said sewing mechanism, and means for visibly. indicatin the properly synchronized stitch by stitcli advance of the tape relative to said sewing mechanism, said latter means comprising a stationary gauge plate having a plurality of indicator elements corresponding relatively to the number and spacing of the series of stitches to be formed intermediate 'and traversing the fasteners of the tape, said gauge plate being disposed adjacent to the path of travel of the fasteners of the tape, and a rotary indicator wheel synchronized with and actuated by said tape advancing means, said wheel having indicating devices also corresponding to the number and spacing of the said series of stitches to be formed intermediate and traversing the fasteners of the tape.

5. In combination with a sewing machine, means for guiding fastener tape to the sewing mechanism of the machine, means for advancing the tape relatively to said sewing mechanism, an automatic stop cooperative with the fasteners on the tape for governing the movement of the tape to said sewing mechanism, and means for visibly indicating the properly synchronized stitch-making advance of the tape relative to said sewing mechanism, said latter means comprising a stationary gauge plate having a plurality of indicator elements corresponding rela tively to the number and spacing of the series of stitches to be formed intermediate and traversing the fasteners of the tape, said gauge plate being disposed adjacent to the path of travel of the fasteners of the tape, and a rotary indicator wheel synchronized with and actuated by said tape advancing means, said wheel having indicating devices also corresponding to the number and spacing of the series of stitches to be formed intermediate and traversing the fasteners of the tape.

6. In combination with a sewingmachine, means for guiding fastener tape to the sewing mechanism of the machine, means for intermittently advancing the tape relatively to said' sewing mechanism, a positive stop means cooperative with the fasteners on the tape for governing the movement of the tape to said sewing mechanism, and means for actuating said stop in synchronized relation to said tape advancing means.

7. In combination with a sewing machine, means for guiding fastener tape to the sewing mechanism of the machine,-a pair of rotary'gripping rolls for advancing the tape relatively to said sewing mechanism, means for rotating said gripping rolls, apositive stopmeans cooperative with the fasteners on the tape for governing the movement of the tape to said sewing mechanism, and means for actuating said stop in synchronized relation tothe tape advancing operations of said gripping rolls.

8. In combination with a sewing machine, means for guiding fastener tape to the-sewing mechanism of the machine, a pair of rotary gripping rolls for advancing the tape relatively to said sewing mechanism, means for rotating said gripping rolls, a positive stop means cooperative with the fasteners on the tape for governing the movement of the tape to said sewing mechanism, means for actuating said stop in synchronized relation to the tape advancing operations 'of said gripping rolls, and means for visibly indicating the properly synchronized stitch by stitch advance of the tape relative to said sewing mechanism.

e u 9 BEST AVAILABLE co 9. In combination with a sewing machine, means for guiding fastener tape to the sewing mechanism of the machine, a pair of rotary gripping rolls for advancing the tape relatively to said sewing mechanism, means for rotating said gripping rolls, a positive stop means cooperative with the fasteners on the tape for governing the movement of the tape to said sewing mechanism, means for actuating said stop in synchronized relation to the tape advancing operations of said gripping rolls, and means for visibly indicating the properly synchronized stitch by stitch advance of the tape relative to said sewing mechanism, said latter means comprising a stationary gauge plate having a plurality of indicator elements corresponding relatively to the number and spacing of the series of stitches to be formed intermediate and traversing the fasteners of the tape, said gauge plate being disposed adjacent to the path of travel of the fasteners of the tape, and a rotary indicator wheel actuated by the means for rotating said gripping rolls and synchronized with the tape advancing movement of the latter, said wheel having indicating devices also corresponding to the number andspacing of the series of stitches to be formed intermediate and traversing the fasteners of the tape.

10. In combination with a sewingmachine having amain rotating shaft for actuating the sewing mechanism thereof, means for guiding fastener tape to said sewing mechanism, a pair of rotary-gripping rolls for advancing the tape relatively to said sewing mechanism, means actuated by said main shaft and synchronized with the operations of said sewing mechanism for intermittently rotating said gripping rolls to so advance the tape as to produce a series of stitches intermediate and traversing the fasteners thereof, apositive stop means cooperative with the fasteners on the tape for governing the movement of the tape to the sewing mechanism, and means for actuating said stop in synchronized relation to the tape advancing operations of said gripping rolls.

11. In combinationwith a sewing machine having a main rotating shaft for actuating the sewing mechanism thereof, means for guiding fastener tape to said sewing mechanism, a pair of rotary gripping rolls for advancing the tape relatively to said sewing mechanism, means actuated by said main shaft and synchronized with the operations of said sewing mechanism for intermittently rotating said gripping rolls .to so advance the tape as to produce a series of stitches intermediate and traversing the fasteners thereof, a positive stop means cooperative *ith the fasteners on the tape for governing the movement of the tape to the sewing mechanism, means for actuating said tape in anism, and means for visibly indicating the properly synchronized stitch by stitch adance of the tape relative to said sewing machine.

16. In combination with a sewing machine having a main rotating shaft for actuating the sewing mechanism thereof, means for guiding fastener tape to said sewing mechanism, a longitudinal counter shaft, a lower gripping roll on said counter shaft, a second shaft in intergeared relation to said counter shaft having an upper gripping roll to cooperate with said lower gripping roll, said gripping rolls serving to advance said tape relatively to said sewing mechanism, a ratchet and pawl drive connected with said counter-shaft adapted to produce intermittent rotative impulses of said gripping rolls of normal degree whereby said tape is advanced to produce normal stitches intermediate the fasteners thereof, a second ratchet and pawl drive connected with said counter-shaft in cooperative relation to said first ratchet and pawl drive, said second ratchet and pawldrive being adapted to eriodically produce intermittent rotative impulses of said gripping rolls of greater degree whereby said t ape is advanced to produce jump stitches traversing the fasteners thereof, means operated by said main shaft for actuating said respective ratchet and pawl drives in synchronized relation to said sewing mechanism, and means for visibly indicat-ing the properly synchronized stitch by stitch advance of the tape relative to said sewing machine, said latter means compris ing a stationary gange'plate having a (plurality of indicator elements correspon ing relatively to the number andispa'cing of the series of stitches to be formed intermediate and traversing the fasteners of the tape, and a rotary indicator wheel actuated in synchronism with the tape advancing movementof said grippingrollssaid wheel having indicatinggdevices also corresponding to the number and spacing of the series of stitchesto be formed intermediate and traversing the fasteners of the tape.

17. In combination with a sewing machine having a main rotating shaft for actuating the sewing mechanism thereof, means for guiding fastener tape to said sewing mechanism, a longitudinal counter shaft. a lower gripping roll on said counter shaft, a second shaft in intergeared relation to said counter shaft having an-npper gripping roll to cooperate with said lower gripping roll, said gripping rolls serving toadvance said tape -relatively to said sewing mechanism, a

ratchet and pawl drive connected with said counter-shaft adapted to produce intermittent rotative impulses of said gripping rolls of normal degree whereby'sa-id tape is advanced to produce normal stitches intermetuating the BEST AVAILABLE COP. 11

diate the fasteners thereof, a second ratchet and pawl drive connected with said countershaft in cooperative relation to said first ratchet and pawl drive, said second ratchet and pawl drive being adapted to periodically produce intermittent rotative impulses of said gripping rolls of greater degree whereby said tape is advanced to produce jump stitches traversing the fasteners thereof, means operated by said main shaft for actuating said respective ratchet and pawl drives in synchronized relation to said sewing mechanism, a positive stop means cooperative with the fasteners on the tape for governing the movement of the tape to the sewing mechanism, means for actuating said stop in synchronized relation to the tape advancing operations of said gripping rolls, means for periodically releasing said gripping rolls relatively to the tape while a fastener of the latter is operatively engaged by said stop, and means for visibly indicating the properly synchronized stitch by stitch advance of the tape relative to said sewing machine, said latter means comprising a stationary gauge plate having a plurality of indicator elements corresponding relatively to the number and spacing of the. series of stitches to be formed intermediate and traversing the fasteners of the tape, and

a rotary indicator wheel actuated in synchronism with the tape advancing movement of said gripping rolls, said wheel having indicating devices also corresponding to the number and spacing of the series of stitches to be formed intermediate and traversing the fasteners of the tape.

18. In combination with a sewing machine having a main rotating shaft for acsewing mechanism thereof, means for guiding fastener tape to' said sewing mechanism, a pair of rotary gripping rolls for advancing the tape relatively to said sewing mechanism, means actuated by said main shaft and synchronized with the operations of said sewing mechanism for intermittently rotating said gripping rolls to so advance the tape as to produce a series of stitches intermediate and traversing the fasteners thereof, and means for visibly indicating the properly synchronized stitch by stitch advance of the tape relative to said sewing machine.

19. In combination with a sewing machine having amain rotating shaft for actuating the sewing mechanism thereof. means for guiding fastener tape to said sewing mechanism, a pair of rotary gripping rolls for advancing the tape relatively to said sewing mechanism, means actuated by said main shaft and synchronized w'th the operations of said sewing mechanism for intermittently rotating said gripping rolls to so advance the tape as to produce zit) a series of stitches intermediate and travcrsing thefasteners thereof, and means for visibly indicating the properly synchroinzed stitch by stitch advance of the tape relative to said sewing machine, said latter means comprising a stationar gauge plate having a plurality of indicator elements corresponding relatively to the number and spacing of the series of stitches to be formed intermediate and traversing the fasteners of the tape, and a rotary indicator wheel actuated in synchronism with the tape advancing movement of said gripping rolls, said wheel having indicating devices also corresponding to the number and spacing of the series of stitches to be formed intermediate and traversing the fasteners of the tape.

20. In combination with alsewing machine having a main rotating shaft for actuating the sewing mechanism thereof, means for guiding fastener tape "to said sewing mechanism, a pair of rotary gripping rolls for advancing the tape relatively to said sewing mechanism, means actuated by said main shaft and synchronized with the operations of said sewing mechanism for intermittently rotating said gripping rolls to so advance the tape as to produce a series of stitches intermediateand traversingthe fasteners thereof, a positive stop means cooperative with the fasteners on the tape for governing the movement of thetape' to the sewing mechanism, means for actuating said stopin synchronized relation to the tape advancing op erations of said gripping .rolls. means for periodically releasing said gripping rolls relatively to the tape while a fastener of the latter is operatively engaged by said stop, means for visibly indicating the properly synchronized stitch by stitch advance of the tape relative to said sewing machine, said latter means comprising a-Stationary gauge plate having a plurality of indicator elements corresponding relatively to the number and spacing of the series of stitches to be formed intermediate and traversing the fasteners of the tape, and a rotary indicator wheel actuated in synchronism with the tapeadvancing movement of said gripping rolls, said wheel having indicating; devices also corresponding to the number and spacing of the series of stitches tobe formed intermediate and traversing the fasteners of the tape.

2-1. In combination with a sewing machine, means for guiding fastener tape to the sewing mechanism of the machine, a pair of rotary gripping rolls for advancing the tape relatively to said sewing mechanism, means for rotating said gripping rolls, a positive stop means cooperative with the fasteners on the tape for governing the movement of the tape to said sewing mechanism, means for actuating said step in synchronized relation naoaeoc to the tape advancing operations of said gripping rolls, and a tape'tensioning means intermediate said stop-means. and said gripping rolls.

22. In combination with a sewing machine,

means for guiding fastener tape to the sewing mechanism-of the machine, a pairof rotary gripping rolls for advancing tape relatively to said sewing mechanism. means for rotating said gripping rollsfa pbsitivc stop means cooperative with the fasteners on the tape for governing the m oveinent f the tape to said sewing mechanism, means for actuating said stop in synchronized relation to the tape advancing operations of said gripping rolls, a tape tensioning means intermediate said stop-means and said gripping rolls, and means for periodically releasing said gripping rolls from advancing relation to the tape.

23. In combination with a sewing machine having a main rotating shaft for actuating the sewing mechanism thereof, means for guiding fastener tape tosaid sewingmechanism a pair of rotary gripping rolls for advancing the tape relatively to said sewing mechanism, means actuated by main shaft and synchronized withthe operations of said sewing mechanism for intermittently rotating said gripping roll's to so advance the tape as to produce, aseries of stitches'intermediate and traversing the' fasteners thereof,- a p ositive'stop means c o-operatiye with the-fasteners on theftape for governing the movement of the-tape to the sewing mechanism, means fer actuating said stop in synchronized relationto'the' tape advancing operations of said gripping rolls, and a tape tensioning means. termediate stopmeans. and said grippingfrolls.

24:. In combination with a sewing machine having a main rotating shaft for actuating the sewing mechanism thereof, means for guiding fastener tape to serving ..mechanism, a pair of rotary gripping polls for advancing the tape relatively to sa d sewing mechanism, means actuated by said main shaft and synchronizedwith the operations of said sewing mechanism for intermittently rotating said gripping rolls to so advance the tape as to produce a series of stitches intermediate and traversing the fasteners. thereof, a positive stop means cooperative withhthe f asteners on the tape for governing the movement of the tape to the sewing mechanism, means for actuating said stop in synchronizedrelation to the tape advancing operationsof said gripping rolls. a tape -tensioning means intermediate said stop-means and said gripping rolls, and means for periodically releasing said gripping rolls from advancing relation to the tape. i i i v25. In combination with a sewing machine having a main rotating shaft; for actuating the sewing mechanism thereof, means for guiding fastener tape to said sewing mechanism, a longitudinal counter shaft, a lower gripping roll on said counter shaft, a second shaft in intergearec elation to said counter shaft having an upper gripping roll to cooperate with said lower gripping roll, said gripping rolls serving to advance said tape relatively to said sewing mechanism, a ratchet and pawl drive connected with said counter-shaft adapted to produce intermittent rotative impulses of said gripping rolls of normal degree whereby said tape is advanced to produce normal stitches intermediate the fasteners thereof, a second ratchet and pawl drive connected with said counter-shaft in cooperative relation to said first ratchet and pawl drive, said second ratchet and pawl drive being adapted to pe-- riodically produce intermittent rotative impulses of said gripping rolls of greater dcgree whereby said tape is advanced to produce jump stitches traversing the fasteners thereof, means operated by said main shaft for actuating said respective ratchet and pawl drives in synchronized relation to said sewing mechanism, a positive step means cooperative with the fasteners on the tape for governing the movement of the tape to the sewing mechanism, means for actuating saidstop in synchronized relation to the tape advancing operations of said gripping rolls, and a tape tensioning means intermediate said stop means and said gripping rolls.

26. In combination with a sewing ma chine having a main rotating shaft for actuating the sewing mechanism thereof, means for guiding fastener tape to said sewing mechanism, a longitudinal counter shaf a lower gripping roll on said count-er shaft, a second shaft in intergeared relation to said counter shaft having an upper gripping roll to cooperate with said lower gripping roll, said gripping rolls serving to advance said tape relatively to said sewing mechanism, a ratchet and pawl drive connected with said counter-shaft adapted to produce intermib tent rotative impulses of said gripping rolls of normal degree whereby said tape is advanced to produce normal stitches intermediate the fasteners thereof, a second ratchet and pawl drive connected with said counter-shaft in cooperative relation to said first ratchet and pawl drive, said second ratchet and pawl drive being adapted to pcriodically produce intermittent rotative impulses of said gripping rolls of greater degree whereby said tape is advanced to pro duce jump stitches transversing the fasteners thereof, means operated by said main shaft for actuating said respective ratchet and pawl drives in synchronized relation to said sewing mechanism, a positive step means cooperative with the fasteners on the tape for governing the movement of the tape to the sewing mechanism, means for actuating said stop in synchronized relation to the tape advancing operations of said gripping rolls, a tape tensioning means intermediate said stop-means and said gripping rolls, and means for periodically releasing said gripping rolls from advancing relation to the tape.

27. in combination with a sewing machine, means for guiding fastener tape to the sewing mechanism of the machine, means for advancing the tape relatively to said sewing mechanism, and a signal means to indicate abnormal tendencies in the advance of said tape to the sewing mechanism, comprising a plural signal actuating means, one part of which is governed by the movement of the tape in said guiding means and the other part of which is governed by the tape advancing means.

28. In combination with a sewing machine, means for guiding fastener tape to the sewing mechanism of the machine, means for advancing the tape relatively to said sewing mechanism, and an electrical signal means to indicate abnormal tendencies in the advance of said tape to said sewing mechanism, said latter means comprising an electric circuit, a signal device in said circuit, a pair of circuit closing devices in said ircuit, means operated by engagement with fasteners of the tape as they advance toward the sewing mechanism for actuating one circuit closing device, and means operated by said tape advancing means for actuating the other circuit closing device, said respective actuating means being normally synchronized for alternate operation whereby the circuit is maintained interrupted during normal conditions.

29. In combination with a sewing machine, means for guiding fastener tape to the sewing mechanism of the machine, means for P im, 13

advancing the tape relatively to said sewing mechanism, means for intermittently releasing said tape advancing means from engage ment with the tape, and a positive stop means cooperative with the fasteners on the tape for governing the movement of the lat ter to said sewing mechanism.

30. In combination with a sewing machine, means for guiding fastener tape to the sewing mechanism of the machine, a pair of rotary gripping rolls for advancing the tape relatively to said sewing mechanism, means for rotating said gripping rolls, and means for periodically releasing said gripping rolls from advancing relation to the tape, and a positive stop means cooperative with the fasteners on the tape for governing the movement of the latter to said sewing mechanism.

31. In combination with a sewing machine, means for guiding fastener tape to the sewing mechanism of the machine, a pair of rotary gripping rolls for advancing the tape relatively to said sewing mechanism, means for rotating said gripping rolls, and means for periodically releasing said gripping rolls from advancing relation to the tape, a positive stop means cooperative with the fasteners on the tape for governing the movement of the latter to said sewing mechanism, and atape tensioning means intermediate said stop means and said gripping" rolls.

In testimony that I claim the invention set forth above I have hereunto set my hand this 6th day of January, 1925.

LEO ROSENMAN. 

